I've heard that if you are really hard core you will go with vc17 or
baltoplate. They are vinyl based and retain their hardness even after the
boat is splashed. Unfortunately, as Jean mentioned, the antifouling is
reputed to be weaker. One other really cool paint is epaint 2000 (
www.epaint.com). It is also hard and retains that hardness in the water.
It works by reacting with light and releasing hydrogen peroxide, which is
about as environmentally friendly as possible. It is also a water based
paint. I have heard reviews from some people who love it and others who
have had a horrible time with it coming off the boat 6 months later.
Apparently the application process is very particular.
Pete
ps I believe that the consumer marine ablatives do contain a lot of copper
and other biocides. I've heard of other types of paints used on cargo ships
that work more how michael is describing.
On 4/5/07, VAURY Jean <jean.vaury at missioneco.org> wrote:
>> The article is 100 % wrong on saying that hard paints build up and not
> ablative (ablative make terrible cakes after a while making hulls ugly ad
> slow), at least the VC 17 that I have used for 9 years doesn't build up at
> all, I know it is not the best on the fouling protection but in area where
> the water is clear and warm at least a few months a year, including Chicago
> where we sailed the boat a few years
>> and the VC 17 M version with Biocide is getting close to the fouling
> qualities of the best other hard paints
> Jean
>> ------------------------------
> *De :* tuna-bounces at myfleet.org [mailto:tuna-bounces at myfleet.org] *De la
> part de* Richard Reader
> *Envoyé :* jeudi 5 avril 2007 12:35
> *À :* drmcdow at sfsurgerycenter.com; tuna at myfleet.org> *Objet :* Re: [Santana 22] How To Wet Sail and Be Fast
>> Craig,
>> Webster's defines *ablate* as "to remove or destroy especially by cutting,
> *abrading*, or *evaporating*". As I understand it, ablative antifouling
> paint works by gradually releasing biocides and metals (copper) that are
> contained in the paint into the water over time to create a toxic layer that
> discourages the nasties from attaching to your hull.
>> Try this link for a description of the difference between "ablative" and
> "hard" antifouling paints:
>http://powerboat.about.com/od/hulls/a/lowdn_botpaints.htm>> (I'm sure someone will have a better, more accurate explanation out
> there.)
>> Richard
>> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Craig McDow <drmcdow at sfsurgerycenter.com>
> To: Richard Reader <richard.reader at stanfordalumni.org>
> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2007 11:59:50 AM
> Subject: RE: [Santana 22] How To Wet Sail and Be Fast
>> TO all tuna's
>>>> Curious about the word 'ablative'. In my 'world' ablative refers to *
> removal* of a surgical specimen…how does the word ablative paint relate?
>>>> I had a sprayed on bottom for the CYC midwinters but as luck would have it
> (Pat recalls) the ebb on Sat and Sun was 5.4 and 5.1 respectively and the
> wind was, uhh, nonexistent. So I don't know how much improvement I'll really
> have. My bottom had never been taken down to the gel coat since it was
> placed (1971) the keel was absolutely awful.
>>>> Will let y'all know after a couple of Friday niters.
>>>>>> Sure enjoy the Tuna emails…hope to get out for some Class races this
> season. Kids are now 3! Today's their birthday.
>>>> Craig McDow (Sweet Reward)
>>>>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* tuna-bounces at myfleet.org [mailto:tuna-bounces at myfleet.org] *On
> Behalf Of *Richard Reader
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 05, 2007 11:17 AM
> *To:* Pete Trachy; List Satanna 22
> *Subject:* Re: [Santana 22] How To Wet Sail and Be Fast
>>>> Just to be clear, "Pettit Vivid" is not one (i.e. hard bottom) paint--it's
> the brightly colored version available for more than one type of their
> antifouling paints. Specifically, you can get "Vivid" flavored ablative
> anitfouling, hard antifouling, speed antifouling and aluminum antifouling.
>>>> I point this out because I was confused when I saw an ad for Pettit Vivid
> *ablative* antifouling paint after reading Pete's email.
>>>> Richard
>> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Pete Trachy <pete at tolachi.com>
> To: List Satanna 22 <tuna at myfleet.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 4, 2007 12:11:09 PM
> Subject: [Santana 22] How To Wet Sail and Be Fast
>> Summary: Ablative paints are SLOW. Get a sprayed hard bottom. Your
> bottom is only as good as the prep work, spend an afternoon fairing it with
> a 3M fairing board.
>> I think that there are a few people in our fleet who have been unduly
> frustrated in their quest for speed. Faired keels, new sails, and years
> spent sailing still leaves the top of the fleet out of reach. I personally
> think that bottom work has done more to take me from being consistently last
> in the fleet than anything else, including new sails.
>> Many of the wet sailed boats, including mine when I got it, have a
> traditional ablative bottom paint. This paint is soft and rough. Even
> though I was cleaning my old ablative bottom before races, it's cratered
> surface was never going to be fast. From what I understand, this type of
> thing is very difficult to avoid with an ablative bottom as the paint
> gradually flakes away.
>> A hard paint will maintain a smooth surface over the life of the paint job
> and not flake off like an ablative. You will also be able to to give it a
> light wet sanding with 600 grit to make it super smooth before it leaves the
> yard.
>> Steps:
>> 1: Remove all of your old ablative bottom paint. It will bleed through
> and screw up your new hard paint. This is a must first step.
>> 2: Your bottom is now down to gel coat, spend a day or so going over it
> with a long board. If there are any divets etc... Fill them with fairing
> compound and sand them smooth. The end product is only going to be as good
> as the effort you put into this step!
>> 2.5: You may need a barrier coat. Talk to your yard or paint
> manufacturer.
>> 3: Pick a hard bottom paint and get it sprayed on. Get it sprayed.
> Sprayed is smooth, sprayed is faster.
>> 4: Give your bottom a light sanding with 600 grit after it has dried.
> Light, we don't want to take too much off.
>> 5: Clean your bottom before every race you care about doing well in. And
> make sure your diver is treating it well. Pettit vivid should only be
> cleaned with smooth carpet, I think I am going to use a sponge this year.
>> Paints: I personally like Pettit Vivid because it comes in white which is
> easy for me to clean. Michael Tosse at Svendsen's recommended Proline 1088
> with graphite mixed in. Kim Desenberg at KKMI says they like Micron 66
> which he thinks is harder than vivid. I'm sure there are other solutions.
> The key is to get a hard paint and prepare the bottom well.
>> Tools: 3M makes a great fairing board. It made a huge difference when I
> was working on my keel. I have one that you can borrow.
>> Don't let your yard push you around into doing what is easiest for them.
> If you have questions ask the list.
>> Finally, I want to point to the results at the last Scombridae Sunday.
> Kevin McElroy and his brother Darren got 3rd of 8 boats in the after lunch
> racing. I know that Kevin only got the boat last fall and just started
> sailing a year and half ago. This was the first time he had raced the
> boat. He just got a sprayed Vivid bottom (yellow as you may have noticed)
> and cleaned it that morning. Old sails, no rockstar crew, just some hard
> work in the yard and a smart young man at the helm.
>> I think that getting the right bottom on the wet sailed boats in our fleet
> will make the racing tighter and more fun for everybody. Clarifications,
> corrections, personal experience... let us know.
>> Pete
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