[Santana 22] Would this keel sump worry you?

Nancy & Pat Broderick broderic at sonic.net
Mon Nov 24 00:28:36 EST 2008

Bill, Jan, and Greg,

Yes, those keel bolts have got to come out!  A good day's work. More  
by the time it all gets faired, sealed, sanded, and painted.  I'd  
begin by soaking the nuts in penetrating oil (I use PB Penetrating  
"Blaster" Catalyst by Blaster, Inc.).  It's in a spray can at  
Kragen.  Put it on several times over a week or so, letting it soak  
down into the threads.  You can do this prior to hauling the boat.   
If the bolts are still sticking, try a little heat with a propane  
torch, but be careful not to start a fiberglas fire.

Hopefully the flange on the keel is in better shape.  I don't suppose  
you've been able to see the boat out of the water to take a look at it?

If the bunk walls are fiberglass, then any questions about punky  
plywood are answered.  I've just never seen any that were.  The  
important thing about repair is to grind out all the old tape and  
fiberglass that originally held them in place so the new tape/epoxy  
has a good surface to adhere to.  If you just put the new tape over  
the old stuff it won't hold as well and look like sh%$#!

And, while you're at it, the seam below the main beam and between the  
forepeak surface and hull should be examined.

And, while we're talking "survey" here, I'd look very, very carefully  
at the thru-hull, gate valve, and pipe.  They look like a disaster  
waiting to happen.  I'd take out the thru-hull and re-bed it for  
starters - but I'd really replace it with a modern glass-filled thru- 
hull.

I don't think gate valves have any place inside a boat - does it  
actually open and close?  I'd put a proper sea cock in - and keep a  
tapered plug wired to it just in case.  There aren't many holes in a  
Tuna's hull and it's best to keep it that way since the bilge is  
about as deep as the nuts that stick through from the keel.

Pat


On Nov 23, 2008, at 8:40 PM, Bill Murphy wrote:

> The bunk connection doesn't worry me, but the keel bolts may be
> galvanized instead of stainless,  judging from the picture.  This
> could be potentially dangerous if the corrosion has gotten into the
> bolts themselves.  I replaced my galvanized bolts with stainless when
> I bought my boat.  It was about a day's work for me, probably less
> for a professional.
>
>
>

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