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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I used this method successfully on Soliton
#584, many years ago. Its a bit scarey in the sense that you'd better
make damn sure you have plenty of release wax on the shaft. But, it worked
well and tightened up the bearing quite nicely.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Mark Lowry</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=tmc664@comcast.net
href="mailto:tmc664@comcast.net">tmc664@comcast.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=frankdog@gmail.com
href="mailto:frankdog@gmail.com">charlie wood</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Cc:</B> <A title=tuna@myfleet.org
href="mailto:tuna@myfleet.org">tuna@myfleet.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, February 10, 2010 5:43
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Santana 22] Rudder
bearings</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">
<P>Here's a breakdown with drawings of one repair method by West
Systems. I'll be trying this method in a couple of months.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Tom McIntyre</P>
<P>#802 Spitfire</P>
<P> </P>
<P><BR>----- Original Message -----<BR>From: "charlie wood" <<A
href="mailto:frankdog@gmail.com">frankdog@gmail.com</A>><BR>To: "Erik
Hauge" <<A href="mailto:erikh@dakine.com">erikh@dakine.com</A>><BR>Cc:
<A href="mailto:tuna@myfleet.org">tuna@myfleet.org</A><BR>Sent: Wednesday,
February 10, 2010 4:38:06 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific<BR>Subject: Re:
[Santana 22] Rudder bearings<BR><BR>Hi Erik,</P>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Rudder play in the Santana 22 is a common thing. Depending on the
severity of the play, it shouldn't affect performance. If it's bad, then it'll
only get worse over time as the brass and/or bronze bearings you may have
found in your later-model tuna will become more oval. Earlier models had no
bearings but just the rudder tube. I have some play in mine as well (#561),
but I have not taken the tiller head apart yet to determine if there are
bearings in there.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I have not seen the bearings you're indicating, but if there are two (top
and bottom of rudder tube), and they are not epoxied in (important!), the top
should be able to be removed with an automotive gear puller, one that has a
threaded center piece that you can fit a washer and nut onto the end. Make
your own washer out of a steel plate about 1" wide (no wider than the rudder
post) and long enough to span the rudder tube inside dimension, and a slot or
hole in the center wide enough to accept the width of the puller shaft. Then,
thread the nut onto the end. Use blocks stacked on the cockpit floor for the
legs of the puller to push against.
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Once the top bearing is out, you should be able to pound the lower
bearing out from the top using a mallet and a length of wood (such as a closet
hanger pole or broomstick end).</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Various methods exist on how to remedy the situation. Replacing
bearings is a different story. You may want to contact Schock and see if there
are replacements (I didn't see any in their parts catalog, but a phone call
might prove more valuable). </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>The method I think might work well is replacing your bearings with an
epoxy bearing version that you create yourself by adding graphite powder to
your epoxy mix. On the Santana 22 fleet website, under the "Articles" section,
there is a link named "Maintenance Tip: Rudder "Play"" in which Mark Lowry
discusses how to do this procedure. It's actually easier than it seems. I
employed this method on another boat (not a Santana 22) and had results very
similar to those that Mark discusses in his entry to that article. You can
find more info on this type of thing by getting one of the West System Epoxy
"how-to" books from Gougeon Brothers. They are usually about $10 at Svendsen's
or West Marine. They are really good about education. Here are some how-to
guides: <A href="http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/"
target=_blank>http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/</A>. You're also bound
to find info on how to do this at the Gougeon Brothers' Epoxyworks magazine,
which is devoted to working with epoxy. Sniff around the online version
here: <A href="http://www.epoxyworks.com/"
target=_blank>http://www.epoxyworks.com/</A>.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Finally, you may want to talk to Steve at Seal's Spar and Rigging. He's
got loads of experience with these boats. Contact page is here: <A
href="http://www.sealsspars.com/contact.html"
target=_blank>http://www.sealsspars.com/contact.html</A></DIV>
<DIV><FONT class=Apple-style-span face="'Myriad Web'" size=3><SPAN
class=Apple-style-span style="FONT-SIZE: 12px"><FONT class=Apple-style-span
face="'Trebuchet MS'"><SPAN class=Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium"><BR></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>I hope the info helps.</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=Apple-style-span
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<DIV
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class=Apple-style-span
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<DIV
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class=Apple-style-span
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<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space"><SPAN
class=Apple-style-span
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Chalkboard; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; orphans: 2; widows: 2; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space"><FONT
class=Apple-style-span face="'Myriad Web'"><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space"><SPAN
class=Apple-style-span
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Chalkboard; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; orphans: 2; widows: 2; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px"><SPAN
class=Apple-style-span
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Myriad Web'">charlie</SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space"><FONT
class=Apple-style-span face="'Myriad Web'">#561, "Star Kissed"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space"><FONT
class=Apple-style-span face="'Myriad Web'"><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space"><FONT
class=Apple-style-span
face="'Myriad Web'"><BR></FONT></DIV></SPAN></DIV></SPAN></DIV></SPAN></DIV></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>On Feb 10, 2010, at 4:00 PM, Erik Hauge wrote:</DIV><BR
class=Apple-interchange-newline>
<DIV><FONT face="Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><BR><BR>Hi All,<BR><BR>I have a question to the fleet
regarding rudder bearings. I recently dropped the rudder out on my S22 #454,
as there is a large amount of play in the rudder. I was under the
impression that Santana 22’s did not have any rudder bearings (other than a
fiberglass tube). I found that my boat has bronze rudder bearings and
they are quite worn. I have two questions: <BR><BR>1. Does anyone have any
experience or good ideas on removing these bearings?<BR>2. Are replacement
bearings available anywhere?<BR><BR>Thanks in advance for your
help.<BR><BR>Erik</SPAN></FONT>
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